Puqio

The journey to Colca begins in Arequipa, one of Peru’s most enchanting cities, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an ideal place to adjust to the altitude. From there, a scenic four-hour drive winds across the vast Altiplano, where herds of alpacas roam beneath snow-capped volcanoes, before descending into the rugged grandeur of the canyon and the village of Yanque. The camp, opened in 2024 by Andean – a hospitality group known for its highly regarded properties across the country – is perched on a lower rim of the canyon, just above the Rio Colca, at an elevation of over 3,400 meters (~11,000 ft), surrounded by grasslands, terraced fields, towering mountains and volcanoes. Blending the spirit of adventure with the comforts of a safari-style experience, the camp offers all meals and daily excursions included in the rate. Its privileged location in the heart of the valley makes it a perfect base from which to explore one of Peru’s most captivating regions.

With just eight rooms, the lodge feels truly intimate. A central pavilion serves as the lobby, restaurant, and social hub; from there, boardwalks wind through corn and vegetable fields toward the accommodation. You can choose between two types: four safari-style canvas tents called Carpas, and four adobe-walled rooms called Pircas, housed within two villas that blend seamlessly into the landscape with traditional mud bricks and exposed wooden beams. What all rooms share is a warm, characterful aesthetic, with nostalgic vintage furnishings, antique Peruvian rugs, comfortable bedding, and wood-burning stoves that bring cozy warmth on cool canyon nights. The Carpas, inspired by a National Geographic article from 1934, feature both indoor and outdoor showers, a terrace with a sitting area, and an outdoor soaking tub–perfect for stargazing under the open sky. Two of them, the Carpa Refugio, offer extra space, with a larger lounge area and a sofa that converts into an additional bed. The Pirca rooms have integrated bathrooms with a freestanding bathtub next to the bed. Each also comes with a private outdoor area overlooking the canyon–ideal for soaking in the landscape. I enjoyed both room styles, especially the thoughtful details: shearling slippers, nightly turndown gifts, and other small surprises that made the stay feel personal and memorable.

The inviting main lodge serves as the heart of PUQIO, where guests gather for all meals, a soothing cup of muna tea, or a well-earned glass of pisco. All meals are included in the package rates, offering a dining experience that celebrates traditional Andean flavors. Ingredients are primarily sourced from the lodge’s own gardens or nearby farms, ensuring freshness and authenticity. Many dishes are prepared using clay ovens and open flames, infusing each meal with a rich, rustic warmth. Breakfast is a nicely arranged spread featuring local cheeses, cured meats, fresh bread, juices, and rotating hot dishes. Lunch is a multi-course feast, showcasing fresh salads, locally sourced meats, and salmon. On full-day excursions, it transforms into an elegant picnic set in breathtaking locations. One of the most memorable meals for me was the traditional Pachamanca, a time-honored Andean cooking method where meats and vegetables are slow-cooked beneath hot stones. Dinner is a thoughtfully curated four- or five-course set menu, changing nightly to highlight seasonal ingredients and culinary creativity. Portions are generous, and every meal feels like a true celebration of Andean heritage–so be sure to arrive hungry.

A stay with PUQIO is all about in-depth exploration of the region. Daily activities are tailored to your interests, with knowledgeable guides who customize each day, offering options like trekking, mountain biking, or horseback riding. Just a short drive from the lodge lies the archaeological site of Uyo Uyo, an impressive complex dating back to around 1300, where you can often wander the ancient ruins alone. Day trips also include scenic lookout points along the canyon, such as the popular Mirador Cruz del Cóndor, where you can witness the awe-inspiring Andean condors, revered by locals as sacred messengers, with wingspans reaching up to three meters. I was lucky enough to spot more than twenty of these majestic birds that day, but even without them, the sweeping views over ancient terraces framed by volcanic peaks were breathtaking on their own. Some of my favorite experiences were exploring remote steaming geysers and hiking a quiet trail connecting two villages, a true off-the-beaten-path adventure that few travelers ever get to experience. Other options include visiting rural Andean villages, exploring centuries-old churches, browsing vibrant local markets, or observing skilled textile artisans at work. And once back at the lodge, there is nothing better than a relaxing soak in the hot tub, surrounded by the crisp mountain air.